STRANGE SHORE: Dublin
& Prague
SUNDRY LAND: The
Republic of Ireland & The Czech Republic
WANDERING WAY:
Goodbye Ireland, and Hello Prague in all its magical wonder.
Once again, I’ve been remiss in updating “Strange and
Sundry,” but that’s only because I’ve been terribly busy roaming around Prague
with my jaw dropping, eyes popping, and heart soaring aloft like a cherry-red
helium balloon. It’s rather difficult to remember anything that might’ve
happened to me before I reached Prague. (My name is Sharon Fulton, isn’t it?
I’m originally from…?) However, I did see four plays in Ireland in addition to
Druid’s divine “Waiting for Godot,” which was world-class in every way. For the
sake of thoroughness, here are four brief reviews before we reach the heart of
the matter, namely Prague.
Irish Theatre – Láidir
Overall! Not London, Not New York, But Aoibhneas Nonetheless
1. “The Constant Wife” by W. Somerset Maugham at The Gate
Theatre – After a slow start Maugham’s comic cynicism flies at the audience in
a blitz of increasingly biting bon mots, and I was struck once again by Maugham’s
sympathy towards women doomed to be economically dependent on men. Highly
recommended for any theatre-goer who happens to be in Dublin and who’s too
wimpy to see “The Wake” instead. (See below)
2. “Shelter” by Cristin Kehoe, a “Druid Debut” staged
reading at The Mike Lally Theatre, Galway – In a characteristically generous impulse,
The Druid Theatre Company invited new playwrights to mount staged readings
during the Galway Arts Festival, and I happened to catch “Shelter” one
afternoon. Although I might associate the play with the annoyingly common
contemporary trend that I’ve privately deemed “sitcom moonlighting” – the
dispossessed souls at the center of the play have a tendency to banter like the
characters on “Friends” – I’ll forebear in offering a full review since it’s a
work in progress. More to the point, the play deserves a chance since shows promise
– I look forward to the playwright’s next
effort.
What struck me more than the play itself was the spectacle
of witnessing an Irish audience offer notes and commentary on the performance.
I’ve attended several new play readings in New York out of pure curiosity, and
it almost goes without saying that the Irish are far kinder and more thoughtful
(in both senses) than the average New Yorker. It was a treat to listen to these
sensitive audience members offer constructive critiques but only after
encouraging the playwright in the warmest terms. They almost squirmed; you
could see their dilemma, “I want to wish her well, but should I give her a few
pointers? The play needs work…” Watching this internal struggle was more
dramatically satisfying than the play itself. Must be nice to live in Ireland
among the Irish. What nice folks. (As a side note, this Q&A session was
hosted by Marty Rea (aka Vladimir in Druid’s Godot) – fabulous guy!)
3. “Arlington [a love story]” by Enda Walsh at The Galway
Arts Festival – As a venerated playwright however, Walsh doesn’t require the velvet
glove treatment for his new effort. It’s difficult to disagree with Walsh’s insight
that a dystopia where humans only communicate through modern dance and cryptic
dialogue would be rather tedious. One character commits suicide out of boredom –
I could sympathize.
4.“The Wake” by Tom Murphy at The Abbey Theatre – For those
who’ve been keeping close tabs on Druid, you’ll recognize Aisling O’Sullivan as
the actress who played Prince Hal in the recent tetralogy, “DruidShakespeare.”
After watching her play the rising Henry V, it was rather disheartening to see
O’Sullivan arrive on stage as a self-conscious, middle-aged, single woman from
New York City. (I myself would far prefer to be the future King of England –
even post-BREXIT – than a middle-aged single woman from New York City.) However,
this set-up is simply a ploy (a guise if you will) to introduce a rebellious
screed about what happens when unbridled female sexuality and rage is unleashed
on a traditional Irish hometown. The first half of this play deserves
comparisons with Harold Pinter’s “The Homecoming” (awesome), and O’Sullivan
bites into the role of the hell-raising arrivée with bloody relish. The play is
so carnal and unruly in its first half that I had great fun during Intermission
in observing the traumatized stares of the parents who’d brought their children;
really, what were they thinking? It’s a TOM
MURPHY play – did they expect THE
WAKE to be the family-friendly exception in Murphy’s oeuvre? The best
moment came as I eavesdropped on the shocked reactions of the French couple behind
me. (It shocked French people – says something.)
I’m saddened to report that the play loses its nerve in the
second half, resorting to an unbelievable return to normalcy. This denouement
is particularly disappointing after the defiant mayhem of the superior first
acts. It made me wish that Harold Pinter had finished up the play that Murphy
started oh so well. What can one do?
A Jewel of Great
Beauty – Prague
Before I stepped onto the glistening cobblestones of Prague,
I couldn’t have predicted the city’s beauty. Certainly I’d received a few clues
before arriving: my old high school friend Hannah hailed from Prague, and she’d
lamented tirelessly how much she missed everything in the Czech capital.
Being ignorant, I’d attributed these soliloquies on Prague’s wonders to the
homesickness of a seventeen-year-old girl. Beyond these sugar-spun tales, I’d
watched “Amadeus” (filmed in Prague) and “The Illusionist” (also filmed in
Prague) over and over and over again, but I’d figured they were just a movies.
Can you really believe anything in a movie? And then there were the gee-whiz,
pixie-cult descriptions of contemporary “cool Prague” in Laini Taylor’s first “Daughter
of Smoke & Bone” novel, at its best when it’s praising the multifarious nooks
of Prague.
None of these little smoke signals prepped me for my first
afternoon in Prague as I strolled through a heaven of sculpture and spires,
shocked beyond belief that the earth still held firm beneath my feet.
Before my plane landed,
I’d been worried about finding food that met my dietary
requirements – not a problem at all;
I’d been worried about finding wine instead of beer – not a
problem at all;
I’d been worried about converting Euros to Korunas – not a
problem at all;
I’d been worried about singular lack of linguistic skill in Czech
– not a problem at all;
I’d been worried about my AirBnB – it turned out to be a paradisiacal
address almost too nice for a silly person like me.
Needless to say, I worry far too much. My only worry now is
how I’ll ever bring myself to leave this magical place.
Finding Food – Vietnamese
& Twisty Crepes
Did you know that Prague has a sizeable Vietnamese population?
Well, now you do. It turns out that the Czech and the Vietnamese have a
sympathetic reciprocity, culturally speaking, due to their Communist pasts. As
a result, any vegetarian/vegan tourist visiting Prague would be well advised to
pop into Maly Buddha for some delicious dishes. Probably my favorite Vietnamese
food ever, actually. Moreover, if you’re a pescatarian, you absolutely must try
the traditional Czech dish of grilled trout with walnuts. Thank me later.
Which brings us to dessert. I am incredibly grateful that
Prague is full of windy, hilly, cobblestone streets because it gives one the
occasion to indulge in some much-needed aerobic exercise after gorging on the mind-blowing
desserts available on every street corner. The twisty crepes are delectable;
the gingerbread is yummy; the macaroons are unbelievable; the cookies are lovely; the apple strudel deserves
a sonnet. I could go on and on and on.
Best Moment Thus Far –
Sunset at the Charles Bridge
As I returned to my vaulted quarters that first evening
after a passing rainstorm, I encountered great crowds surging towards the
Charles Bridge, and I wondered what could be drawing everyone forward. I turned
the corner, and tears surged as the light dazzled. Without a doubt, watching
the sunset through the mist over the panorama of the Charles Bridge, Prague
Castle, and St. Vitus Cathedral is one of the most gorgeous sights I’ve ever
seen.
My Darling New Pet –
Falkor the Luck Dragon
For
all of those who've been worried that I don't own a pet, like a doggie, kitty,
or baby (ha), to fill up the supposed "hole" in my life, I have a
very special announcement. I've finally, at long last, acquired a life
companion in Prague. Yes, it's true, and I'd like to formally introduce you to
my new luck dragon, Falkor.
Into
a dumpsty little "boutique" off a side street in Prague, I ventured
to have a look-see (and garner a low-end estimation of the jewelry price range)
– there we met. Falkor squinted up at me, daring me to call him kitsch, but I
just gazed back too in love to know any better. Love's like that sometimes.
After
a bit of haggling, I took him home, secured to my wrist via his silver leash,
but it took time for us to become acquainted. He pinched at first, and I swore
once or twice under his weight. So it was my fault when my darling Falkor shied
away – like any first time pet owner, I lost my temper. I even threatened to
send him back if he didn't behave.
After
a difficult day together, Falkor and I had a few glasses of wine, and he
finally opened up to me.
Falkor:
"Šhároń, yóū kńòw thát Ī ám màdē of Čechia šílvér and črÿstál, ÿés?"
Sharon:
"Yeah, so?"
Falkor:
"Ī wž áfráīd that ÿò wóûldnt lûv mē bécúšź Ī ám not góld ád
díámōńdes."
Sharon:
"Falkor, are you nuts? Of course I love you!"
Falkor:
Ì lùv yó tóō, yō ćrážī bítchkćhé."
Ever
since Falkor and I had this heart to heart, our friendship has blossomed, and
we've been very happy together. Like any flowering cross-cultural relationship,
Falkor and I may encounter the occasional thorn, but I have every confidence
that a Czech Luck Dragon and an American Woman can make it work. I'd only ask
my friends and family to be supportive as we move forward in our lives
together. Thank you.
